Bernard Chandran AW13 Catwalk Show

Bernard Chandran AW13 catwalk review by Emma Scott, images by Lin Vitali.

Note: The author's views are entirely his or her own and may not reflect the views of RetoxMagazine.com

Bernard Chandran Autumn/Winter 2013/14

Bernard Chandran Autumn/Winter 2013/14 collection combines the 50s look with a more contemporary style and was inspired by aristocratic-looking Dovima, the most glamorous and highly paid fashion model of the 1950's - the symbol of the ideal fifties woman.

Star Trek meets Asia

For this latest collection by Bernard Chandran, imagine Spock in a monks robes, kind of funny huh? No I haven't gone mad however; this weird and wonderful collection boasts a very space age yet, Asian feel, the arching black eyebrows sported by the models resemble something out of Star Trek and the rich palette of orange, blue and red along with some rather odd headgear remind me very much of the Buddhist monks that inhabit China.

Print, pattern and plenty of colour

My favourite thing about this collection is the amount of colour, often Autumn/Winter collections are dominated by muted tones of brown, black and grey, whereas Chandran's garments almost burst with an array of striking prints and colours. The space age theme is extended from just the hair and makeup of the models to the shimmering watercolour effect prints on the garments which resemble lots of tiny stars on a swirling galaxy. This is then enhanced by the natural sheen of the fabrics in which they adorn.

Texture is also a staple feature for this collection with surface textiles such as foiling, beading and devoré being used to decorate and make the garments seem like pieces of art, as if they have each been individually painted.

Block it out

There is a prominent 1950's influence to this collection, colour blocking is key with many of the garments featuring large panels of 2 even 3 matt colours. This is then contrasted with skin tight PVC, that offers a light reflecting sheen, decorating areas such as pockets, cuffs and collars and even being used for skirts and bodice.

Chandran uses the art of illusion, keeping his models covered yet layering corset style bodices on top of dresses to draw attention to the waist and bust. Turtle necks and knee length skirts make the collection modest and flattering. Drapery seems to be the method he has taken when creating the collection, allowing the garments to fall fluidly from the body creating beautiful natural folds in the fabric.

The collection overall is refreshing, and uplifting if not a little odd. Oh and the hats remind me a little of mushrooms.