Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk

Belle Sauvage AW13 catwalk review by Emma Scott, images by Lin Vitali.

Note: The author's views are entirely his or her own and may not reflect the views of RetoxMagazine.com

Belle Sauvage, The Masters Of Print

Virginia Ferreira and Chris Neuman are known for creating beautiful and unique prints, and their Belle Sauvage Autumn/Winter 2013 collection was no exception to this. From afar the detail within the prints is hardly recognisable, with many of them blurring into a rich swirl of gold and red hues. However on closer inspection is when you realise the talent and high attention to detail that Ferreira and Neuman possess. I feel along with a very prominent Asian influence radiating from the garments, there is also a slight Grecian feel, with one dress featuring a repeat pattern of a woman whose blond hair appears to be blowing in the wind, drawn in a style that resembles something seen on ancient Greek pottery. This, alongside a dress printed with various images of lions oozes through a regal and elegant feel.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits one and two.
The fur looked striking in deep purple, scarlet red and jet black hues...

Take a trip to Chinatown

It is undisputable the collection has a very oriental influence; the vivid and complex prints on delicate silk and chiffon fabrics remind me greatly of kimonos. This idea is then continued through to the structure of the garments themselves, with many of the shift dresses featuring light weight flared sleeves similar to that of a kimono. What I found surprising however is the use of fur in this collection, now of course it is an Autumn/Winter show, therefore stepping out in a dainty silk dress is hardly going to suffice. It has nevertheless been used rather cleverly, decorating necklines as dense capes, or being used in large rectangular panels to contrast the smooth sheen of the dresses it embellishes.

The fur looked striking in deep purple, scarlet red and jet black hues, giving connotations of royalty and importance and even though fur is often seen as old fashioned I feel it gave the collection a much more cosy and wearable feel.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfit three.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits four and five.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfit six, front and back view.

More is… well more

Now we've all heard the saying less is more, however I feel for this collection that's not always the case. It's hard to miss the large fan shaped head pieces, and thick angular fringes that decorate the models along with the sky high, black leather boots, that to be honest look almost impossible to walk in. The garments themselves are slightly less complicated; shift dresses with peter pan collars, shirts and matching trouser and jacket sets dominate the collection, with small hints of leather appearing now and then. I think what shines through for me is the idea of casual, comfortable clothing which is a bit feminine yet a bit edgy. For example, one outfit features a pair of leather trousers with a black and red zip up jacket; however this is then contrasted next to a pretty, printed peplum dress.

Although simple, the garments are far from boring, the attention to detail on the print work is astonishing, each design being unique and incredibly detailed, the idea of ‘more’ has definitely worked for them when designing their prints and using them on simplistic garments has allowed their intricacy to shine through.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits seven and eight.
It's hard to miss the large fan shaped head pieces, and thick angular fringes...

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfit nine, side view and full frontal view.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits ten and eleven.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfit twelve, full frontal view and close up side view.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfit thirteen; full frontal view and side view.

Colours to make you cosy

Beautiful gold and deep, rich red are both colours we tend to associate with winter however the garments in this collection far from resemble your typical Christmas tree. Gold and red complement each other nicely and are enhanced with jet black on gorgeous, lustrous fabrics. Burnt orange, salmon, pale yellow and sapphire blue also make an appearance on the prints, creating a warm feel yet adding a splash of bright colour to attract the eye. The mix of smooth fabrics with matt textured fabrics, allows us to really see a difference in how texture can affect the aesthetical outcome. On the sheer and shiny fabrics the vivid colours of the prints catch the light, whereas the matt fabrics create a much warmer and subtle appearance.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits fourteen and fifteen.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; close up side view and front view of collection outfit fifteen.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfit sixteen, full frontal view and side view portrait in motion.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits seventeen and eighteen.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits nineteen and twenty.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits twenty-one and twenty-two.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits twenty-three and twenty-four.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits twenty-five and twenty-six.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits twenty-seven and twenty-eight.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits twenty-nine and thirty.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfits thirty-one and thirty-two.

Belle Sauvage AW13 Catwalk - London Fashion Week; collection outfit thirty-three, full-body front and back view.

Simple, classic and wearable

Overall I feel it is a very nice collection; the garments are very wearable yet not boring. The show as a whole fits very nicely together, with no appearance of jewellery on the models as to not upstage the amazing print work and hair and shoes although striking not too over the top. The rich colours I feel really reflect the atmosphere of winter without being too clichéd.

A very good mix of garments by the two designers and definitely a good representation of their talent.